A recent visit to Devil’s Bridge reminded me that some of Wales’s most beautiful attractions come with a small catch: they expect you to earn the view.
Tucked into the wooded landscape near Aberystwyth, Devil’s Bridge is a place combining folklore, spectacular scenery and enough steps to make you question your life choices.
I arrived ready for a gentle stroll. The staircase had other ideas. It did occur to me that the gorge would also make an ideal spot for scattering the mother-in-law’s ashes, especially if she was the sort who always wanted the last word. At least the wind would finally get a chance to answer back.
The circular waterfalls walk begins near the famous Three Bridges, dramatically stacked above the rushing River Rheidol.
It is also where you can hear the legend behind the Devil’s Bridge itself.
From there, the trail winds down into the gorge, with trees, rocky outcrops and glimpses of the river providing excuses to stop and admire the view, or catch your breath.
Further into the walk comes Mynach Waterfalls, where the water tumbles through the gorge in dramatic fashion. Then there is Jacob’s Ladder: around 100 steps of continuous staircase, which feels considerably longer when your legs have already begun negotiating for better working conditions.
The route has 675 steps in total, so sensible footwear and water are not optional extras.
Near the bottom, Robber’s Cave and the waterfalls offer rewards, although the return journey means climbing back up again. Every downward step is a promise you will eventually have to repay.
Back at the top, the viewing area offers a chance to admire the Three Bridges and surrounding Cambrian Mountains without moving a muscle. There is also the shorter Punchbowl walk for anyone who prefers scenery without quite so much stair-related drama.
My recent visit left me tired, slightly wobbly and very happy. Devil’s Bridge may test your legs, but the waterfalls, woodland and unforgettable views make the effort worthwhile. Just remember: nature provides the scenery; Jacob provides the stairs.